Leros has never been a tourist island, and so is discovered with delight by people who find the countryside beautiful and who enjoy staying in one of the island's old mansions, now restored and modernized.
A green island just north of Kalymnos and southeast of Patmos, with rolling hills, country paths, and a jagged coastline full of little coves and long beaches, it is ideal for walking; every turn brings a new view.
On two of Lero's several bays are the ports of Lakki, where the main ferries stop, and Ayia Marina, just below Platanos, the capital. The Italians built submarine pens in the huge, deep bay of Lakki, along with a new town of villas and gardens set on wide, straight avenues.
To the new arrival the town of Lakki appears to sleep amid its palm trees. Only two of the little shops in the old Italian market are still open; the other have closed, not for lack of business but because they have been replaced by large, modern emporiums scattered rather than haphazardly around the town. The sports shop has a most imposing entrance , and an elegant shoe store is furnished with deep armchairs, potted plants, and floor-to-ceiling mirrors.
Roads and footpaths lead to some bays on the ragged coast, and there is a bus that serves many of them. The times are listed at the bus stop, but the drivers do not seem to read the notices.
Traveling on Leros is by bus and taxi, moped and bike, or on foot. Buses leave from the main square in Platanos, visiting Lakki and Xirokambos, and Partheni via Alinda.
Aegean Airway fly to and from Athens daily.
The big ferries dock is at Lakki. In season there are daily ferries to Piraeus, via Patmos, and to Klaymnos, Kos and Rhodes. The inter island ferry visits twice weekly, first going north as far as Samos, then south the following day, ending up in Rhodes.
Excursion boats to and from Patmos and Lipsi to the north leave from Ayia Marina. There is at least one a day in season to Lipsi, and there are one or two weekly to Patmos, according to demand.
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